Battery Testing Process

1. Inspect the battery appearance: Check if the battery case is damaged and if there is any leakage at the bottom.
2. Tap the terminals: Feel if the positive and negative poles are "hollow". If yes, it can be determined that the terminals are poorly soldered or the poles are fused.
3. Measure voltage with a discharge meter: For a normal battery, the voltage should not be lower than 12.6V-12.8V. If the open-circuit voltage is insufficient and the closed-circuit voltage is below 8V (corresponding ranges: 12.5-10V, 12.4-9V, 12.3-8V) with a white eye, the battery may be undercharged and needs to be tested after recharging.
4. Open the battery caps (prize open the small caps): Discharge the battery with a discharge meter and observe the bubbling of individual cells. Bubbling in a cell indicates a single-cell short circuit. Check the electrolyte bubbles—if any cell bubbles or smokes, it means there is an internal short circuit or open circuit in the battery. If within the warranty period, a replacement can be requested.
5. Measure the specific gravity of individual cells: The specific gravity of 6 cells in a normal battery is 1.26-1.28. A significantly lower value indicates a faulty cell. If the specific gravity of one cell is below 1.15-1.20 while the other 5 cells are 1.26-1.28, it means the cell has no effective specific gravity or is underperforming, with micro-short circuit or normal cell short circuit.
6. Test the battery with a battery tester: First, check if the eye is green, then perform a capacity test. The displayed lifespan and power data may not be very accurate—preferably test after recharging. Do not rely solely on the tester data; use it in conjunction with a discharge meter. Only when both indicate a quality issue is the result accurate.